Why do people tend to form groups on the Camino? People are social animals and this is a chance to make very unique friends. A group gives a feeling of safety on this big adventure. It’s difficult to be alone with your own thoughts, maybe a group is a welcome distraction.
Then there is a well-known rule of general human relativity: time seems to flow faster when you are surrounded by a good company.
A few days with our walking crew felt like a school trip, full of excitement of walking somewhere. We crossed the border to La Rioja, which is well-known for wine production. We were particularly pleased by a local dinner culture – any restaurant menu includes an entire bottle of wine per person.
Camino cuts through vineyards, the landscape has pleasant low hills. It was early October and not all grapes have been harvested yet. Is it even worth growing grapes in faces of thousands of hungry pilgrims? Well, there is a trick, as Antonio pointed out. A few rows closest to the Camino are planted by less tasty sour grapes giving the false impression that they are not ready to eat yet. You need to take a walk to the center of the vineyard to discover La Rioja’s treasure.
Grapes, grapes and grapes on the horizon are the best wine advertisement. You even get free samples! Where you ask? At one of the most famous spots on the Camino that was built quite recently. A vineyard offers its surplus wine to pilgrims through a wine fountain! There are actually two taps – water and wine. Jesus wouldn’t be very useful these days… Let the wine flow in the rain!
One thing I find quite funny about Spain are their religious first names. It’s not uncommon to meet Jesús, Angel, Concepción or Adoración. And why do people name their daughters Dolores (sorrows)? I used to think that these names are only used in soap operas.
Camino is also not free from dramatic human disagreements. We passed a visibly hurt and exhausted Portuguese woman. Antonio asked her what’s going on. She claimed that she certainly had a plantar fasciitis. Antonio clearly said that it wasn’t a plantar fasciitis. The woman got really aggressive: “How can you know this? It’s my pain, you don’t know how much it hurts!” The conversation went on for a while. Antonio basically tried to calm her down. The only thing he never said is that he actually had a plantar fasciitis in the past and got operated, that’s the only cure. She wouldn’t be able to walk as fast as she does and her walking style would be different. According to Antonio she had a tendonitis. We left her behind for a while and she caught us up while we were enjoying a glorious Spanish picnic lunch sparkled with the fountain wine. Antonio offered her a hug and repeated: “It’s ok, cry. Come on, just cry.” And she did. And they buried the hatchet. She called a taxi from the nearest bar and returned to Portugal.
Eli, the Catalan woman in our walking crew, also had a problem with Antonio’s personality. He likes being a gentleman – holding the door, pouring the wine for her, offering her help all the time. She expressed her feelings and Antonio didn’t understand. He didn’t do this because she’s a woman. He simply does it for everyone! Ruben offered a proof: Antonio washed and folded his clothes and gave him a back massage. He just likes taking care of people. That’s why we named him “Camino Papá”.
Even though all misunderstandings were explained, our crew members started considering future steps in their walking career. We lost our friend Miguel to the Austrian girl Anna alias “dirndl-saurus”. Blonde hair, blue eyes and a constant innocent smile charmed the dark-haired man so much, that he was willing to communicate with her in any way possible. Miguel speaks only Spanish, Anna’s Spanish is good enough to order food.
Sorry Nokia, nowadays it’s Google translate connecting people.
The crew met in an albergue in the afternoon. I had a perfect view on Miguel climbing to Anna’s top bunk. In a few minutes I overheard Google translate making future plans. It was so entertaining that I did not offer my translate services, even though I perfectly understood her German too. All set. The following day they would sleep together in a private room and walk as fast they can to reach Santiago before a certain date. Miguel had to work. Eli had to come home to celebrate her son’s birthday. Her two weeks on the Camino finished in Logroño.
We all had an amazing food and some goodbye drinks. Miguel collected stamps in every restaurant, Juan called him a stamp whore. During the evening and our walks, Miguel was spending significant amount of time on the phone. When Anna asked who’s on the other end, the Spaniards answered “probably work”. We all knew the truth that Miguel had a demanding girlfriend at home. Nobody wanted to spoil the mood and deny Miguel a “beautiful blonde stamp” on his pilgrimage of love.
Juan and I decided to have a rest day in Logroño. Antonio continued forward alone, he was always one day ahead. Fortunately, he never forgot to take care of us. He texted us where he slept, where he ate, interesting things to see. From this day on we had to face a choice – follow our Camino Papá or find our own path.
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